On Crystal Esprit, the champagne flows and there’s a submarine to play with, but it’s the service that counts. By Gary Buchanan

From the moment I climbed aboard Crystal Esprit, I discovered that service is more than professional; it’s nuanced. Perhaps this was to be expected as Crystal Esprit has one of the highest staff-to-passenger ratios in cruising – 91 crew for a maximum of 62 guests.

Leaving the allure of French St Martin in our wake, the roster of exclusive anchorages for the next seven days included Richard Branson’s latest hideaway – Moskito Island; the volcanic outcrop that is Saba, where forested peaks soar 5,000 feet from the sea floor; the Caribbean ode to chic that is St Barths; and the yachtie haven of Falmouth Harbour in Antigua; plus Instagram-gold beaches in Nevis. Zodiacs are kept on board for transporting guests from ship to shore as well as beach landings; the yacht’s gangway is only deployed in St Martin at the beginning and end of the cruise.

Several of the exclusive anchorages offer the chance for some lotus-eating on pristine beaches, while for cruisers who want an adrenalin rush, there’s a variety of watersports. This is where the Marina Platform and activity team play a starring role. With the sun gilding Nevis in a heavenly haze, a few of us headed to Pinney’s Beach for an idyllic meander in kayaks. The following day, on St Barths, some of the youngsters among us took jet-skis for a waterborne sortie past several millionaires’ gin-palaces anchored off Gustavia.

In harmony with Crystal Cruises’ penchant for understatement, the ‘Limousine Tender Ride’ from Falmouth Harbour turned out to be an exhilarating jaunt aboard a sleek powerboat that skims the waves like an oligarch’s toy at 45 mph. Chilled champagne is served as we drop down a gear or three to explore Nelson’s Dockyard Marina – a natural, horseshoe-shaped bay full of stunning sailing yachts bobbing nonchalantly at their moorings.

For those who delight in bragging rights, little comes close to a dive in Crystal Esprit’s submersible. I flexed the credit card and climbed aboard this U-Boat Worx C-Explorer 3 that houses a pilot and two passengers for a 25-minute dive to explore a shipwreck off Basseterre in St Kitts. Another dive was made off Saba to explore the stunning reefs.

The choice of places to eat aboard Crystal Esprit is impressive for a vessel of this size. Breakfast and lunch are served in the Patio Café, while casual dining at the Grill is available from 11.30am until 8pm. The Yacht Club Restaurant is a treasure trove of impeccable cuisine created nightly by Chef Adam Jenkins and his team of 12 chefs. Superb wines and top-label spirits are included but there’s also a Connoisseur menu.

Caressed by the warm breezes, the Sunset Bar is open from 10.00am until 10.30pm and is the social hub of the ship. The elegant Cove, just forward of the Yacht Club Restaurant, attracts a convivial crowd for cocktails and after-dinner drinks accompanied by piano melodies. The Moonlight Cinema on Deck 5 shows movies several nights during each cruise. There’s also the Sunset Pool, sauna, gym where Pilates take place most mornings, as well as a petite spa offering a range of treatments.

All cabins on Crystal Esprit are designated as suites; there’s also a two-room Owner’s Suite. With their urbane style and a colour scheme of cool neutrals, soft blues and dove-greys, these plush accommodations have gentrified small ship cruising. All drinks, Wi-Fi and gratuities are included, as is at least one tour in every port. When it comes to the rarefied world of Crystal Esprit, small is beyond beautiful.

Images courtesy of Crystal Cruises and Gary Buchanan