Around Cape Horn on Ventus Australis Nothing had prepared me for the sheer wildness of Patagonia. From the heat and buzz of sophisticated Buenos Aires, where my journey began, we flew south across endless expanses of khaki-coloured steppes to Ushuaia, at the icy tip of South America, swapping flip flops for fleeces on the way. Ushuaia, a cluster of brightly coloured, low-rise buildings, huddles defiantly between snow-capped mountains and the
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