There’s a full moon rising over the sleepy Ionian island of Kythira, throwing silvery light over the clifftop castle, Chora Kythira. My partner, David, and I are sitting in a beachfront taverna, toes in the sand, tucking into fresh sea bream, Greek salad and a carafe of chilled rose, gazing out at the dark sea. All around us, the lively chatter is in Greek. This is an island the locals
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